Spade Bit – Cathedral Bits

Solid High Ports such as Cathedrals and spooned ports make contact with the palate of the horse – some in more severe ways than others. The rider’s soft hands are critical here.

The balance of a Spade, Spoon or Cathedral bit is critical, as they must be ridden straight-up neutral to keep the spoon off the roof of the mouth. When the reins are pulled, the spoon moves forward and up. When the reins are relaxed, the spoon drops down again. They move so easily that this bit is considered a “signal” bit, hinting to the horse with the slightest bit of rein pick-up that his position is incorrect.

If the horse’s head remains vertical and the reins remain loose, the spoon should remain flat and exert no pressure on the horse’s palate at all. If he raises his head, the balance of the bit drops the shanks and raises the spoon (or spade) automatically, reminding the horse (with no action from the rider) that he should lower his head again.

Spades are usually used on the most highly trained and softest horses. They should be used with finesse to “signal” a highly trained horse with almost no movement. They heighten softness and vertical flexion with practically no movement. A horse whose bars have been ruined by poor riding in another type of bit might benefit from a spoon mouth IF his rider is a particularly good trainer and rider.

spade horse bitCathedral bits include a curb strap and have leverage. They exert palate pressure (center spade) but also exert bar, chin and poll pressure from the action of the curb strap like a normal curb bit.

They are not commonly used and can be extremely harsh. I have not found a time, personally, when this bit would be useful to me in the training I undertake. However, any input from friends who have used one would be appreciated.

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14 thoughts on “Spade Bit – Cathedral Bits

  1. The Spanish vaqueros invented most modern “cowboy” tools and techniques. The leveraged bit and training of the horse and rider is part of these tools and techniques. Thanks to a few people who saw this training and tools disappearing, they took the time to record them as a reference for future horsemen. One of these people was Ed Connell in his book Reinsman of the West, Briddles and Bits. In that book, Mr. Connell recorded many of the vaqueros’ techniques for the first time and the book provides most important information about the western leveraged bit.

    Here are a few words of wisdom worth memorizing from that book.
    “When the average person speaks of leverage in regard to bits, it is used to imply the application of force.”
    “Leverage in the bridling of a horse is used to modify and not transmit or apply force and motion.”
    “The transmitting of force and power has no place in the bridling of a horse.”
    “Because of the force and power that can be applied to a horse’s mouth through leverage, many people think that the horse can be forced to work in a certain manner by applying it. Nothing could be further from the truth. The horse cannot be forced to do anything if he does not want to once he has learned to go around the rider.”
    “When too much pressure is applied to the bit through the bridle reins, the horse’s mouth is going to be hurt. He will forget all about the signals because of it. Then, he will go against what the rider is trying to teach him or get him to do.”

    As Dr. Deb Bennett explained: “Traditionally, the expert horseman of this tradition works his horse for several years in the bosal before bitting is even considered. The horse is started at from age two to four. He would thus generally be six to eight years old before bitting.”

    In the western reinsman tradition, before one introduces the horse to a leveraged bit, the horse will be able to perform basic maneuvers by cues from the rider’s leg and seat: move forward, stop and back up, turn, move the front and rear quarters, trot and canter. As veterinarian Dwight G. Bennett says in his article: An Overview of Bits and Bitting: “Bits and bridles are for communication. They are not handles to stabilize the rider in the saddle or instruments for punishing the horse. The accomplished rider uses his seat and legs before he uses his bit to communicate his wishes to his mount. Indeed, the most important factor in achieving soft, sensitive hands on the reins is to develop a good seat.”

    Proper head and neck position is essential to have the horse ride in a position called self-carriage and collection. Collection is a particular posture adopted by horses which is not only beautiful to look at but one that helps the horses move while bearing weight on their back. Helping the horse obtain the proper head (and neck) position is the function of the high port of the western bit. The port is designed and BALANCED to normally lie on the horse’s tongue. (This balance is achieved by also considering the weight of the reins and their action, including bit (slobber) chains.) The other side of the port may or may not be touching the roof of the horse’s mouth (pallet). This is where the balance of the bit comes into play. If the horse raises or moves his nose forward the port of the bit will contact or tap the roof of the horse’s mouth. This encourages the horse to lower his head and or raise at the poll to get its mouth back in line with the bit (no pressure). If the horse tucks his chin, then the bit lies more against the horse’s tongue, and then again, the horse will go into the proper head position (more forward) to minimize this pressure of the bit. When the mouthpiece is rotated, either by the reigns or by gravity, the horse will position his head and neck to make the pressure as comfortable as possible for the horse.

    An essential element of using this bit is the proper adjustment of the curb strap. The curb strap limits the movement of the spade or high port and prevents it from moving too far upward into the horse’s pallet, and certainly, NEVER close to perpendicular to the pallet. The bit is used in the signal phase, before the curb strap engages. When the rider wants to stop he cues the horse with his seat and legs and engages the curb strap. Then the bit becomes a leveraged bit and the horse stops.

    1. Amazing explanation of the use of the bit. Interesting that a horses might be 6-8 years of age before it is introduced.
      You also gave a succint and informative explanation of collection. A work of art.
      Thank you so much!

  2. To help the discussion along…
    I don’t think there is any question that this CAN BE a harsh bit if used by an inexperienced rider AND horse. Both need to be ready for this bit. This is a great transition bit to help put the “finishing” touches on a bridle horse. This gives more presignal to the horse as these tend to be heavier bits such that as the rider picks up on the reins, the horse feels it on their tongue first and should respond before it ever thinks about hitting the palate. In return, the rider must also soften and give to the horse. The weight not only gives signal to the horse, but the rider as well since they are heavier. Then the horse learns to “pack” this bit by holding it on their tongue. The next step then is to start them in a full spade. In the right mouth and hands these bits have incredible communication between horse and rider. It has little to do with forcing the horse into a headset with a bigger bit, but rather increasing communication with little contact.

    These bits are used in high level cowhorse events or versatility ranch horses. I’m sure there are other events that use them, but this is where they are commonly used.

    1. Thank you Chris for this amazing explanation. I would love to use it in the body of the text as well as the comments. But I would want to give credit where credit is due. Would you mind, and if not, how would I give you credit?

  3. The pictures used in this post aren’t spade bits…. they are cathedral curb bits.
    I suggest doing your research and using proper information before making “educational” posts.
    Spade bits are signal bits are should only be used if horse and rider are ready.
    Saying they are cruel bits just means you aren’t educated enough to know the proper use for a spade bit, and shouldn’t be using them.

    1. Hi Rebecca:
      Thank you for your input. Is it the Title” Spade Bit” that you wish changed? Is the discussion not appropriate for a spade bit? or just the wrong image? Do you have an image of a “Spade” I could use?
      The text starts out “Solid High Ports such as Cathedrals and spooned ports”. Perhaps I need to change the title to “Cathedral Bits”? Would that solve the problem?

      I have to admit to being confused about your comments. I have said, “They move so easily that this bit is considered a “signal” bit”. I have also not said that they are cruel. I have said that they must be used with care and education or they can be quite harsh. Please enlighten us if that needs to be clarified further.

      I don’t mind constructive criticism. And if criticizing is all you have time for, I understand.
      However, as I am not an expert with a “spade” bit, I would love for someone (like you) to write an authoritative article about this bit (or any other) and its use. If you have the time, maybe you could oblige us. You could send it to me by email or just write the whole thing in a comment and I can make a whole post of it. I do not advertise or take payment of any kind for my work on this web site, so your contribution would not be lining my pockets – just helping other horse lovers.

  4. man heres the issue wuth bits. we all ride dif. but in western riding i studied vaquero horsemanship. see as the orginal american cowboy i wanted to learn their style. as today we go by a pressure release system. they use a balance system….. such as a spade,dropping head to find no pressure. same whn a bosal is used…… its a science and art….

    1. Hi Larry: It’s actually not apples and oranges. The spade works like pressure-release the same way as any other training technique. When his head is in the wrong position, the bit is uncomfortable (pressure). When he drops his head, the bit becomes comfortable again (release). The call it “balance” we call it pressure-realase.

      Yes, it is both a science and art! Thank you for contributing.

  5. I’ve used spade bits before, NOT for every horse and only for very advanced horses and riders! However, on the right horse they are a beautiful thing, put one on a mare I had in training to show her in (no place in true training in my opinion) but for showing she set her head at vertical and went on he merry way. However this mare could also be rode bridless with the same stride but the bit gave me the chance to “throw away” my reins and let her keep her head at vertical at whatever height was natural to her worked amazing! But for sure takes the right horse and rider combination! Not a bit to be taken lightly, only to be used lightly.

    1. Areille, I love your statement, “Not a bit to be taken lightly, only to be used lightly.” I would like to borrow it in my discussions if you wouldn’t mind.

      This sounds like precisely the right way to use a spade. It reminds the horse with a “self-caused touch” from the bit. If her head strays from your required position, she knows it instantly and seeks the “sweet spot” without your cue or contact of any type.

      Do I understand that you use it for showing? What discipline and class? I don’t know when it is considered a “legal” bit.

      Thank you for this nice illustration and descripton of your experience.

  6. Thank you for clarifying the discussion. I have never used a “spade” bit, and would love for someone to write an authoritative article about this bit (or any other) and its use. If you have the time, maybe you could oblige us. You could send it to me by email or just write the whole thing in a comment and I can make a whole post of it. Just let me know if that thought appeals to you.

    I would also love some help with Gag Bits, as I have no experience with them either.

  7. You…..you realize what the curb strap on a curb is for, right? It’s to keep the bit from over-rotating. Using one of these nasty “pseudo-spades” (they don’t deserve to be called spades, really) without a curb strap is MUCH harsher than using one with. ANY curb bit (and that includes the single/double jointed curbs you’re calling snaffles) is designed to be used with a curb strap. Just because there isn’t a separate ring doesn’t mean that you don’t use the strap.

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